French Beret

Photo of French Beret
Modeled by DW Jacqueline.  photo taken by our son Jimmy using his Olympus Digital camera.

Designed and copyrighted August 1998 by Jimmy L. Simmons

PHILOSOPHY: This beret is submitted to my friends on the Bond Knitting list for their enjoyment. Permission is hereby granted to them to freely copy and pass these instructions along to their knitting friends...as long as the copyright notice is included. This pattern may not be sold or used for commercial purposes to make a profit.


These instructions are purposely quite detailed so that the Bond ISM beginner can be successful in knitting it. More experienced knitters will probably be bored reading all the details. Nevertheless, It is a good exercise and a good learning experience for practicing short row techniques. Not to mention the proper use of weights and the fun of watching it come together...seemingly all by itself. I realize that all the short rows could have been worked on the carriage side; however, the working of short rows on both the carriage and the opposite side was included as a learning exercise.

This beret was designed, and knitted, for my DW, Jacqueline, who has a head girth of 23-inches, but since it has an elastic band it should fit just about any adult.

 

KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FRENCH BERET

Yarn: 2-1/2 oz (70 GMS) Lion Brand Wool-Ease
Color: White Frost 501
Content: 70% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 10% Polyamid
Where purchased: Walmart

Materials needed:
Yarn,
Elastic band,
Claw weights (3 or 4)

Knitted on the Bond ISM
Keyplate #3 (dot)
Gauge: 16 st, 22 r = 4 inches (10CM). [4 st 5.5 row = 1 inch (2.5CM)].

ABREVIATIONS:

COR = Carriage On Right
COL = Carriage On Left
FWP = Forward Working Position (Needles are forward of the working position, but will be knitted)
FHP = Forward Holding Position (Needles pulled forward as far as they will go)
NWP = Non Working Position (Needles are all the way back and out of work)
RC = Row Count
WP = Working Position
L = Left (Needles to the left of "0" <zero>)
R = Right (Needles to the right of "0" <zero>)

NOTE: This beret is knitted in 6 identical sections, but is not removed from the machine when knitting from one section to the next. Before starting this project, read and make sure you understand all instructions. By doing this, you will be assured of a finished beret that will make us both proud.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cast on 30 stitches Using the short hem and ravel cord; and with a yarn of contrasting color.

NOTE: Do the cast-on on needles L12-0-R18 (12 needles to the left of "0" and 18 needles to the right).

Knit 6 or 8 rows with the scrap yarn and break it off...COR; <RC000>. (Set the Row Counter to 000).

Thread the carriage with the main yarn, and attach a clothes pin on the free end of the yarn to hold it.

SECTION ONE:

(*) Carefully, knit 1 row...30 st in WP; (COL); <RC001>
NOTE: STOP AT THIS POINT AFTER KNITTING THE SIXTH SECTION, AND GO TO FINISHING.

Knit 1 row, then pull needle #R18 forward to the FHP...29 st in WP; (COR); <RC002>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R17 to FHP...28 st in WP; (COR); <RC004>.

NOTE: On the first section this is a good point to pull the ravel cord and drop the hem. Use the claw weights to keep tension on the fabric. Hang claw weights so that they keep tension on the end and center needles that are in WP. Re-position the claw weights ever two rows, or so. Watch the knitting. If it tends to bunch at a particular spot then move the weights to keep the tension balanced. This is the secret of even knitting with no splits or stitches dropping.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R16 to FHP...27 st in WP; (COR); <RC006>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R15 to FHP...26 st in WP; (COR); <RC008>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R14 to FHP...25 st in WP; (COR); <RC010>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R13 to FHP...24 st in WP; (COR); <RC012>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R12 to FHP...23 st in WP; (COR); <RC014>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R11 to FHP...22 st in WP; (COR); <RC016>.

Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R10 to FHP...21 st in WP; (COR); <RC018>.

knit 2 rows, then place needle #R9 to FHP...20 st in WP; (COR); <RC020>.

knit 2 rows, then place needle #R8 to FHP...19 st in WP; (COR); <RC022>.

knit 2 rows, then place needle #R7 and #L12, - #L9 to FHP...14 st in WP; (COR); <RC024>.

Knit 1 row, place yarn under needle #L9 and over needles #L10 - #L12. If you don't do this, it will leave a hole. This always should be done when you do short rows by pulling out needles on the opposite side of the carriage...14 st in WP; (COL); <RC025>.

Hang another claw weight on left side so that it keeps tension on #L8.

Knit 1 row, then place needle #R6, and #L8 - #L7 to FHP...11 st in WP; (COR); <RC026>.

Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L7 and over #L8-#L12...11 st in WP; (COL); <RC027>.

Knit 1 row, then place needle #R5, and #L6 - #L4 to FHP...7 st in WP; (COR); <RC028>.

Knit 1 row, then place needle #R4 to FHP. place yarn under needle #L4 and over #L5 - #L12...6 st in WP; (COL); <RC029>.

Knit 1 row, then place needles #L3 - #L2 to FHP. Place yarn under needle #R4 and over #R5 - #R18...4 st in WP; (COR); <RC030>.

Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L2 and over #L3 - #L12. Then place needles #R4 - #R18 into FWP. Make sure that latches are open and the fabric is behind the latches...4 st in WP and 15 st in FWP. (COL) <RC031>

CAREFULLY Knit 1 row, then place needles #L2 - #L12 in FWP. Make sure the latches are open and the fabric is behind the latches. Reset the row counter to 0...19 st in WP and 11 st in FWP; (COR); <RC000>.

This completes section one. Now that you have all 30 needles back into working position, repeat the instructions for the first section starting at "*" five (5) more times for a total of six (6) sections.

After knitting the sixth section you should have all 30 needles in WP; COL; <RC001>.

Break the yarn leaving a tail of about 2 or 3 feet. Remove the yarn from the carriage and hang a clothes pin on the free end to keep it under tension. Then move the carriage to the right side of the machine and thread it with your contrasting yarn.

Knit 6 or 8 rows of waste knitting with the contrasting yarn, and remove the fabric from the machine.

Pull 30 needles to FHP and place the green cards behind them to hold them.

With the right side of the fabric facing you, use the single-end transfer tool to pick up the 30 stitches (one at a time) from one end that has the waste yarn attached and hang these stitches on the needles.

Now, fold the fabric up and hang the 30 stitches from the other end than has the waste yarn on it on the same needles. (The right side <knit side> should be on the inside and facing each other.) You should have two stitches on each needle.

Use your favorite method of binding off these stitches. (I used the winding method). Then remove it from the machine. It does look like a French beret, doesn't it?

FINISHING:

There will be a small hole in the top of the beret. Take a short length of yarn and a yarn needle to make a draw string around the hole and pull it closed.

Turn, and sew, a hem of about 1/2 inch around the head-hole. Be sure to leave an opening to place the elastic band in. Put the elastic band in the hem, and sew the ends of the elastic together.

Make an I-cord about 1/2 or 3/4 inch long and attach it to the top.

Place the beret on your head and show it off. "Mais oui, madame, c'est tres jolie...et tres chic, n'est pas"?
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