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| Discover
New Zealand, Home of Middle Earth |
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Monday, Day 8. Haast turns out to be almost empty except for the holiday
park which has locked showers. There is no one on duty for us to complain,
so we head south along NH6 to Wanaka and Queenstown. With so few people
around, there is no filling station open, so I coast most of the way from
Haast Pass. We arrive in Wanaka with only fumes in the diesel tank, once
again proving the old aviation adage that an engine failure usually occurs
because the fuel tank is filled with air! |
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NH6 winds along lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea before reaching the Hawea
Flat and Albert Town. We especially liked the clear mountain lake water,
which, unfortunately, is rather low this time because of the recent lack
of rain. The mountains in the background are of two distinct structures.
The rounded ones are deposits of gravel, called "moraines," which consist
of soil scooped up by the glacier which came down this valley and deposited
when the glacier melted. The jagged mountains are the result of earlier
tectonic activity. |
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We had planned to drive to Queenstown along the Cardrona River on the
Crown Ridge Road, but we had been warned that driving the camper van there
was not permitted. We found out later that it wasn't that hazardous, but
by then it was too late. Stefanie thought this was an ideal spot to have
her picture taken against the mountain backdrop with her new wool scarf,
which she bought yesterday in Wakefield. In a country of 8 million sheep,
you can get some very nice woolen things. |
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Next on the agenda was the Safari
of the Rings tour, which took us out to the gold rush town of Arrowtown
before turning west. There we met some donkeys whose ancestors had been
pack animals for the regional prospectors. Our safari guide, "Stoney,"
knew that they would want to be fed, and came prepared. There was a mule
there, too, but he didn't seem very interested. Stefanie had to get a picture
of herself petting the donkeys, which they obliged, but I think they expected
a treat as payment for being in the picture. |
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We stayed on the road along Lake Wakatipu, with a beautiful view of
the mountains, and passed some farms where we stopped to have a chat with
some llamas. The Safari was well planned for the sightseer, but I wanted
actually to set foot in the exact locations of things listed in Ian Brodie's
LOTR Location Guidebook. Stoney pointed them out and talked about them
as we drove by. As a result, whenever we stopped, I jumped out to find
the location I was looking for to take a picture. Stoney was trying to
keep to on his schedule, but was good-natured about it, even though I made
him late getting back. |
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One of the places we visited was a red beech forest near Closeburn,
which Stoney said was like (but not exactly the same place as) the entrance
to Lothlorien where the remaining fellowship met Haldir. (Gimli breathed
so loud they could have shot him in the dark!) This was also the area for
some of the shots of Amon Hen, where the orcs killed Boromir and kidnapped
Merry and Pippin. The location on the right is the general area where Gandalf
leaves the Shire and heads for Gondor. The Location Guidebook is not very
specific about the locations, and it would have helped to have GPS coordinates.
If (when) I ever go back, I am going to retrace this route with someone
from the film crew (or Stoney, if he's willing) and locate the exact vantage
points involved. |
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Part of the Safari involved a stop for cookies, tea, coffee and fruitcake,
which Stoney provided for us to snack on while he collected the money for
the trip from all of us. The other people made disparaging remarks about
the fruitcake, so I ate most of it. I had a New Zealand Discount Card,
but I forgot about it, so I don't know if I would have received a discount
for the trip or not. Stefanie thought this this would be another good place
to take a picture, so I took one of her and we had one of our fellow travelers
take one of the two of us. |
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The end of the safari was the Dart River around Glenorchy. This is
the location of Isengard, the fortress of Saruman, and the central tower
of Orthanc. Orthanc was composed of various sets and a giant model, but
the scene was digitally imposed on the Dart River terrain. There's nothing
left of Isengard now. (Of course, we know that the ents tore down the tower
and buried the underground weapons factories in silt when they destroyed
the dam and let the Dart River in.) |
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